The Sleeping Phoenix

This was not Franz Schneider's first visit to India. He had been to Delhi and Mumbai for official work in the past. But this was his first visit as a mere tourist and this time he was accompanied by his wife Eva. They had come from Munich to visit some of the extraordinary specimens of architecture in India. After visiting Agra, the favourite destination for foreign tourists in India, they had flown to Bhubaneshwar early this morning. Now they were heading towards the exquisite Sun Temple of Konark.

They were seated in a sturdy white Ambassador thundering along the highway. Bijoy, their guide, who had picked them up at the airport had told them that the car was the most dependable and most sinewy model ever manufactured in the country. It wasn't exactly comfortable but the spacious interiors were enough to induce both Franz and Eva into a nap. But Bijoy kept on rattling off information about the villages through which the highway wiggled.

"This village is famous for its handicraft. The adjacent village is known for its beautiful hand-woven sarees... Looks like Sahib and Madam are asleep,” said Bijoy beginning in English and addressing the concluding statement to the driver in Oriya.
It didn't take long for them to reach the Sun Temple. By then Franz and Eva were awake, refreshed after a pleasant nap. They were walking down the narrow lane heading towards the Heritage site protected by the Archaeological Survey of India.

The lane was lined by crude constructions on both sides which housed hawkers selling souvenirs like miniature replicas of the temple. There were photographers who chased people with albums in their hands which displayed their works of art. Local guides wanted to accompany groups of foreign tourists adding to the confusion. Franz and Eva were now acclimatised enough to ignore the beggars who asked for a paisa. Bijoy led the way and the Schneiders tailed along. Eva was surprised to see the Swastika being used abundantly on the goods for sale in the stalls. She noticed that the symbol which was avoided in public in the cautious west lest it send the wrong signals, was being revered in this part of the world along with a symbol which resembled the number 30.

Bijoy took the Schneiders round the vast grounds of the temple explaining the astronomical and geographical importance of the architecture of the structures. Franz was amazed to know that the temple stood there for centuries battling invaders and nature's fury. A cyclone had struck the state of Orissa about 6 months back too. Franz also admired the presence of such skill and talent in the region. India was surely turning out to be more mysterious than they had expected. The Schneiders sat down on one of the many carved staircases for a quick photograph clicked by Bijoy. Bijoy and the driver took turns and joined them for a couple of photographs.

"How long have you been doing this job?” asked Franz to strike an informal conversation. "Six years, Mr. Schneider. I started working as a guide right after I passed my University Exams. The day I formally became Bachelor of Arts. History and Archaeology were my favourite subjects. So I decided to pursue a career which would be related to my liking. I couldn't apply for further studies because my family needed me to work, Herr Schneider," Bijoy said with his gaze fixed at the gargantuan structure behind them.

"How do you enjoy your work? Don't you think you are overqualified? “said a surprised Eva. "No, Frau Schneider. I am very satisfied with my work. I get an opportunity to portray the culture of my country. I get to interact with so many curious minds. We Indians believe in a philosophy called Dignity of Labour. Every job is equally respectable. And we need educated men and women in every field if we want to stop the brain drain which we are facing. I don't need to talk about dignity of labour in front of you because your nation is industriousness ‘nationified’. Germans worked hard to help raise the Phoenix from the ashes after a destructive past. In India's case, the Phoenix has been lying under the ashes since centuries. It's sad to see that a billion workers can't beckon the phoenix to rise,” said Bijoy.

He whistled a melodious tune as he stood up intending to head towards the car. The Schneiders wanted to capture the frame with the Sun temple at its centre in their memories. Bijoy would have hoped that they do not remember the rusted Do Not Litter signs surrounded by litter.